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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.